09 May , 2008: Summit day. ...

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Summit day

Started the day at 1:30 am, Ngima, head sherpa, woke us up and brought us some tea and prepared breakfast. Shortly after we began our ascent. We had dedided to climb Island Peak without the usual night at high camp halfway up the mountain.

 

First three hours we climbed in total darkness using our headlights, much steeper than anticipated, pah covered with loose rocks and gravel making the ascent evenmore difficult.
At sunrise we reached the glacier and put on our double plastic boots, crampons and climbing gear. About 100 meters from the top Niklas had to abort, due to exhaustion - suffering from the infamous Khumbu cough. Anders reached the summit at 7:30 am, making the climb in total of 5,5 hours. Weather was quite poor. We both feel happy and relieved as we both achieved our goal surpassing 6000 meters and got down safely.

On the way down Niklas acted as a nurse as Anders was suffering from severe stomach cramps, diareea, and vomiting. Eventually we got back to BC where Anders passed out for 1, 5 hours, thereafter we trekked all the way back to Dingboche.