Daily Dispatches

Title: Dick Morse - Lhotse Expedition 2012

23rd April, 2012 - EBC to Camp II

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Lhotse Expedition

23rd April, 2012 - EBC (17,500 ft.) to Camp II (21,000 ft.)

It was clear and cold when Lakpa and I left EBC a little after 4: 30 AM.  We had a couple hot drinks before we headed up into the Icefall.  We moved slowly and arrived at Camp I at 9 AM.  It felt good to sit in one of Peak Promotions tents at Camp I for a while.  We ate a couple candy bars along with some hot Gatorade.  The trip through the icefall had gone pretty well, but it was quite windy so the sun was really appreciated when it hit us just before Camp I.  I could tell that I did not feel strong.  The 4 – 5 sick days had taken their toll.  Just before Camp I we crossed over a crevasse (ladder) where a Sherpa Had died two days ago.  Both Lakpa I was taken back by the blood stains on the crevasse wall.

After Camp I my energy really went downhill.  Thanks to Lakpa’s encouragement I was able to keep going.  It also helped that one of the cooks at Camp II met me with some hot drinks about 45 minutes below Camp II.  My previous trips from Camp I to Camp II usually took about 3 hours.  This time it took 5 hours.  I have a long way to go to get my strength back – lots of eating and drinking.

At camp II I moved into my tent and got more hot drinks.  I was exhausted, but no headache.  Around n6 PM I had dinner.  Lakpa had the cooks fix very bland spaghetti which was perfect for my condition.  I ate most of it along with some fruit cocktail.  Lakpa brought me a small Primus lantern for light and some heat.  He sat it away from me in the tent.  Unfortunately when some wind gusts came up later in the evening the floor lifted knocking it over.  It landed on the edge of my sleeping pad – immediately deflating it.  I spent the next 20 minutes creating a make shift pad out of a very large storage bag and all of the clothing I had at Camp II and my pack for my lower legs and feet.  After that – sweet dreams!

Everest western cwm between Camp I and Camp II

Everest western cwm between Camp I and Camp II