16 October 2007: High Camp...

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Base camp-High camp (5255m)

Stiff wake up after our first night in a tent at 6. Freezing cold morning with yaks, trying to find green grass around our tents. Breakfast at 7 AM followed by early dal bat lunch at 9 AM. Started towards the high camp at 10 AM. First scrambling up a steep scree slope 300 meters, then rock climbing further 100 meters, assisted by some fixed rope to the camp at the last flat area before the last 900 meters to the summit. A French team had already camped in the same area.

Mingmar, Nigma and French team’s sherpa climbed up to fix the ropes to the steepest parts of the glacier at 12.20. Meanwhile we set up our gear for the climb. At 3 o’clock snowstorm started and we heard thunder and avalanches roaring all around us. We got worried as dark was approaching, storm was getting worse and still no sign of our guides. Finally, at 5, we started hearing voices from the route and they materialized from the storm! Later Mingmar told us they had fallen thousand times on the rocky slabs at the lower parts of the route. Because of the circumstances the odds were against us and we decided to see the conditions next morning.