At last the real holiday began today. We spent the morning sunbathing on the terrace outside a 'real' coffee shop to the sound track of yak bells. Lots of coffees and banana cake later we met Ngwang at 12 for a final lunch at the Kumbu Lodge, and sadly to bid goodbye to Namche. Setting off for Monjo, a 2-3 hour trek, we were struck by how ill most people climbing the long hill to Namche looked. White/grey and sweaty, heads down. I'm sure we looked the same a couple of weeks ago. Now, full of energy at the lower altitude, we went down the hill at a good pace until being stopped in our tracks at the high rope bridge by train after train of donkeys, maybe a hundred or so. They naturally had right of way as they were mostly carrying bags of cement and have no spacial awareness outside their own body size. Following the Dudh kosi we arrived at the Sagarmatha Nation Park check point and finally left the park. A few hundred meters later we were in Monjo for the night. We were a bit put out that our room was about 20 meters right above the river, so again cold, the wind howling down the valley. Will we ever escape the cold?