On the day of November 6,2017 After a pleasant night in Dole we left at 7.45am to trek to Tengboche monastery via Phortse. Initially retracing our footsteps down through the rhododendron covered hillside with many waterfalls, this morning a lot of the surrounded by ice, to the River, and then a steep climb up to Phortse. This turned out to be a beautiful village on a large plateau which faces south, like a huge sun terrace! The village still feels very authentic, with most houses still working agricultural smallholdings. It didn't feel like the trekking industry has encroached here very much. Some soup outside in the sun and then onward to the monastery in time for the annual festival and the Mani Rimdu Dances. Little did we know what was in store getting there! Ngwang phuri sherpa showed us the wonders of a 'real' Himalayan path used by local people, rather than trekkers. We crossed a mountainside where we saw wild Himalayan goats, which have goat faces but beautiful long glossy coats that rippled in the breeze. Then just round the corner my nightmare - a narrow switchback dusty path down a sheer mountainside!! Ngwang phuri sherpa was with me every step of the way and Gary gave great support - otherwise there is no way I would have got down! Once off the scary bit it was beautiful. We did not realize, however, we would be climbing the same distance up the other side and as steep. Two exhausted trekkers (again) arrived in Tengboche.