It had been the coldest night on the entire trip. We slept with four layers (including down jacket), beanie, turtle neck and thick socks inside our sleeping bags. Sofia even had an extra fleece cover inside her sleeping bag. Suddenly it knocked on the door! Both of us woke up immediately. Have we overslept? Sofia crawled to the door in her sleeping bag and opened. It was Ngwang and Gemke who came to serve us some tea. It was 4.50 AM and we had set our alarm at 5.00. We sat on our beds and drank the hot tea. We were going to Kala Patthar this morning, to see the sunrise over Mt Everest. Kala Patthar, which means "Black rock" in Nepali, is a hill 5645 m above sea level just beside Gorakshep.
We dressed and put on our head lights and started to walk. It was pitch-black, freezing cold and we could see all the stars in the dark sky above the white mountain peaks. The path were stony and zigzagged up the hill. It was hard to see all stones and put your feet on the right place. Every step uphill was exhausting. Sofia breathed so heavily she was almost not able to walk. We had to stop to take short breaks, drink water, eat some cookies and chocolate. At this altitude it is only 50% oxygen, that's why we had to walk very slow. While we walked the sun started to rise and it became lighter. We could see the sun shine on lower peaks. An adorable sight!
Further up the stones got bigger and turned in to big rocks that we had to climb over. Almost at the peak and we could see the big stone pile at the top and the Buddhist flags in their bright colors. We got new energy from somewhere and started to climb on all four up the big rocks and reached the peak. Gasping for air, we turned around and saw Everest's peak. It was thin clouds behind it which became pink when the early sun rays from below reached them. The clouds looked like snow that was blowing from the peak. With this amazing view in front of us we had some cookies. When our fingers and toes were as ice we started to walk down again. When we had passed the rocky part we started to walk faster and were running down the hill and jumping over stones on the way. It was probably due to an adrenaline and sugar rush and that it felt ten times easier to go down than up.
It took us only two hours back and forth those 500 altitude meters, not too bad. Some people didn't even make it to the top. Back at the hotel in Gorakshep and we had breakfast before starting trekking down again. From Gorakshep to Lobuche we passed over several hills and the path were stony and went up and down like a roller coaster. Mostly down of course, which made us walk quite fast. In Lobuche we stopped for a tea break at the hotel we stayed at last time. Sitting in the sun and watching helicopters landing and takeoff. It is common that people go for sightseeing around the highest peaks.
We continued further down and passed the memorial place and stopped in Thukla for a light lunch. After Thukla it was only down and we could walk very fast, skipping down all the way to Pheriche. And the beautiful mountain Ama Dablam welcomed us back when it risen to the sky with its snowy peak.