Our last day of the trek completed.  Arriving in Muktinath last night, we wearily welcomed a brief side step trip to a collection of shrines that make Muktinath a pilgrimage site for many. The shrines reside together and have been present for 1,000 years include a Buddhist gompa, a Vishnu temple and the Jwalamai Temple (Goddess of Fire). Within the Goddess of Fire Temple is a focal point where natural gas emerges and the jets penetrate the rock and the natural spring at this point and produce a natural eternal flame.  The the natural gas jet (fire), the natural spring (water) and earth in proximity lend this site its great religious importance.  A few years back, the natural gas got as bit unruly and burnt a large part of ground. The translation “the fire came from the rocks”. Around the Vishnu temple, the natural spring is funneled through 180 brass spouts shaped in cow and dragon heads. It is a ritual bath to walk through them in sequence. The kids happily splashed their way through them all. Refreshed, we made it to the hotel and good night!

Muktinath to Jomson today… for a total of (can I hear applause? Okay, at least try to smile for us!) 140 kilometers.  Noticable differences with a road now extending this far. The trek today was scenic and interesting through Jharkot and Khinga. We are seeing trees, orchards and fruit again and bought some roadside apples... yum.  Lunch at Kagbeni , an access point to the Mustang provence.  From Kagbeni to Jomson the road became dry, rocky, windy and dusty.  Jeeps passed occasionally and if you were a pedestrian... Beware.  I think the traditional Annapurna circuit will sequentially get shorter as more roads are built. The road will increase market availability for the farmers and ideologically access to goods and services for the entire region, but I suspect will divert trekkers to less accessible areas. Trekking and traffic do not mix. ACAP is working to divert the trekking trail in some areas.  Are Pikes Peak or Mt Evans chosen hikes now?  I am glad we were here to experience this now.

Tonight we are staying with Om in her hotel in Jomson. Om, or grandmother, has nine children of her own scattered from Austin, Tx to Australia to India and include doctors and several who have completed master programs. Let’s just say Om runs a tight ship in Jomson. She is my new hero. Om was tickled to have a set of “little tiny tourists” with her last night and we enjoyed her as well. Oh, did I mention limitless hot water last night!

Chorten in Mustang
We are loving cow
Muktinath Water Spot
Jessica looking a view of Mustang	Water spots in Muktinath
Going to Jomsom	Bye Bye Thorung La pass