Small Nepalese delay in Buddha Air flight from Chitwan to return to Kathmandu. Note to self: small delay is Buddha Airline equivalent of five hours.  Nevertheless, we blessedly arrived in Kathmandu and settled into exploring more of this riot of sounds, smells, traffic amidst winding, ancient roads not designed for motorization. Our children, accustomed to the mountains of Colorado, where even in the US we trapse to Denver to learn how to cross streets and follow street signs as pedestrians, took to the streets of Kathmandu. Quickly, they learned the art of skipping down the narrow lanes of erratic traffic and pedestrians while distracting hawkers and shop owners vied with the traffic for their attention. Truly, as a parent, it was more comfortable trekking and monitoring for mountain sickness than maneuvering around the city! Quick lessons in crossing in the middle of streets (better visibility), stopping only in alcoves, steady pacing to allow traffic to predict your movements combined with handholding soon made traversing the streets enjoyable for all. We have patented the “Cow Crossing”. This clever ploy works best in many-laned, unremitting traffic. The Cow Crossing step by step:  1. Identify hopeless traffic situation, 2. Find mobile cow 3. Herd cow to cross the street 4. Follow cow closely as no one will dare injure this Hindu holy animal 5. Successfully cross the street. 6. If cow tosses horns in your general direction, go back to step 2 and identify new cow (US patent pending # 00087365345)

We have taken these final days to explore more of this ancient city that is in the midst of change. A trip to Bhaktapur, one of the three medieval city states dating from the 7th century AD and its Newari roots yield the religious and architectural backbones of Nepal. Red cobblestoned narrow lanes meander and are, as a rule, never straight, come from the ancient, local brickmaking industry.  Temples, statues, cisterns, wells are the template from which so many other towns emulate throughout Nepal.  Fu dogs romp in abundance and we are having a “best Fu dog picture” contest.  From the 14th to the 17th century, several King Mallas flourished and built this city up as the most powerful city state. It was not until 1768 that Prithvi Shah united the three city states into what is now Nepal and Kathmandu took over as the capital city. A statue of Prithvi centers a roundabout as he holds up a single finger. Although Prithvi was number one man  in his time, we were informed it was to show the  unity of one nation he achieved. I would like to imagine Prithvi as a man of humor who would appreciate the “I’m number one!” sentiment.

Several Thanka painting schools flourish in Bhaktapur. Thanka painters take 12 years of training before establishing themselves as masters. The masters are said to enter trances during their efforts and paint freehand from their artistic visions. A master’s work is valued for the expression of the figures and attention to detail. Final touches are done with one-haired brushes and using 24K gold paint.  Gods, goddesses and Buddha are the overwhelming patterns although the current Dalia Lama’s inspirational and geometrical design done in sand is a new and current favorite.

So enough history. Current day Nepal is still agonizing over a written constitution. They have had a constitution-in-progress since the 2008 declaration of the Federal Republic of Nepal. To note, Nepal has only one party, the Maoist party, and still consensus is elusive. Current priority is to decentralize the government and allow districts to do state business. For example, if one wishes to get a passport or visa, each individual must go to Kathmandu. Talking with locals, some attention is also focused on decreasing the population influx to Kathmandu. Daily, expected power outages to preserve the electrical grid function and paralyzing traffic are issues locals wish resolved. Many other concerns are secondary including trash disposal and education.  A thoughtful contrast to the many rurally-based locals we met who were living with split families and sending their children to Kathmandu for education at boarding schools. The Nepalese people we have met and asked so many questions of approach these issues with equanimity and a pervasive good humor. The prevailing optimistic attitude lends the feeling that all these problems are surmountable.

To Nepal…you have exceeded our expectations.
To our Nepalese friends both with the HRA, Peak Promotion as well as so many others that shared a bit of themselves... you have enriched our family and our lives.
To our friends at home,   thank you for your thoughts, emails and encouragement. Shiloh and Marissa are our tied winners for the episode of “Questions on Nepal”. Answers:
1. Rupees are the currency of Nepal.
2. Nepal’s government is currently a republic.
3. More than 4 million people live in Kathmandu Valley.
4. The time difference between Nepal and Kathmandu is about 12.15 hours.
5. The Himalayas.
6. The national tragedy in 2001 was when the royal family was massacred by the eldest son. That was when it switched from a monarchy to a republic.
7. Chomolungma and Sagarmatha are Mt. Everest’s local names.
8. Coach: Graham Roberts, Goal Keepers: Bikash Malla, Kiran Kumar Limbu, and Ritesh Thapa. Lead Scorers: Ju Manu Rai, Anil Gurung, and Bharat Khawas. Name: Nepali Select Team.

Your prizes will coming.  (Simply send a self-addressed envelope to Kathmandu...or wait till we return). This concludes our time in Nepal. Please email us if you wish to continue to receive our thoughts and pictures as we head to Bhutan and Thailand.

Walking in kathmandu street	Bhaktapur Durbar Square
statues on Bhaktapur Durbar Square	Nyatapola Temple in Bhaktapur