The wind settled down quite a bit during the night. By morning it was light and quite cold. Neither Lakpa nor I slept well. In fact we both had a terrible night’s sleep. Lakpa didn’t say anything about being cold during the night until we were getting up. His sleeping pad did not insulate well enough from our snowy perch at Camp III. Some of my problem was probably drinking too much tea when we got up to Camp III (Not Decaf!).
Lakpa and I had hot drinks and then headed down at 8:30 AM. A new route had been put up yesterday to Camp II so we chose to try it instead of the route up yesterday. We had only one repel on the last pitch on the face. We could clip in on all of the other pitches and simply use our hands on the rope to walk down. There was far less ice fall and no rock fall. We were back at Camp II before lunch time.
Because I had so little sleep last night I spent most of the afternoon napping. It was still cold even down here at Camp II and we had a few inches of snow before dinner. At dinner most of the WMS climbers still had their down suits on. Tomorrow morning I go back to EBC. Then the waiting begins for a summit window (good weather). The route also needs to be finished up to high camp. Hopefully that will be done in the next few days. Then the Sherpa’s will start hauling tents, food and oxygen up to the high camps.